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Glossary and Functions A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z A ABSOLUTE Aromatic, volatile substances obtained by solvent extraction from a single botanical species. For example, rose absolute is derived from rose. None of the solvent remains after the process is complete. Absolutes may be used like essential oils. ALKYL POLYGLYCOSIDES Alkyl polyglycosides provide formulators with new possibilities to meet the new trend in formulating detergents like higher concentration, increased mildness and greater environmental compatibility. Derived from carbohydrates and fatty alcohols, they are a category of mild, moderately foaming, highly soluble nonionic surfactants with an excellent environmental behavior by virtue of high biodegradability and low ecotoxicity. Alkyl polyglycoside surfactants are environmentally safe and have excellent toxicity and biodegradability profiles. ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE/ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF EXTRACT This gel is cold pressed from the leaves of the aloe vera plant, indigenous to East and South Africa. It is a good source of fatty acids, polysaccharides, salicylic acid, saponins, vitamins, minerals and amino acids. With a long history of medical uses, the gel is antibacterial, antiseptic, emollient, healing, moisturizing and soothing. When applied to cuts, burns, lesions and abrasions, this anti-irritant oxygenates the skin, allowing rapid healing, reducing inflammation and soothing the skin. Aloe vera is used hair products with remarkable results for both the hair and scalp. ALPHA HYDROXY ACID This organic acid is produced by fermentation. Skin care products containing AHA exfoliate not only dry, dead and damaged skin cells, but the skin's protective barrier as well. Long-term skin damage may result from its use. ANTIOXIDANTS These substances prevent the formation of free radicals, which can cause the oxidative deterioration that causes premature aging of the skin. Natural antioxidants like vitamins A, C and E are often included in skin care products to help fight wrinkles and other signs of aging. ANTHEMIS NOBILIS FLOWER EXTRACT This extract is steam-distilled from the Central and Eastern Europe Chamomile plant. The yellow liquid has a warm, sweet, herbaceous scent that is calming, balancing, deeply relaxing and restorative to both mind and body. In massage oils, it can promote relaxation and help reduce muscle tension. This extract also has anti-inflammatory, anti-itching, cleansing, conditioning, healing, and moisturizing properties and is one of the few essential oils that can be used on inflamed skin. AROMATHERAPY Based on the belief that smell is an important part of healing, this traditional therapy has been used since ancient times to soothe both body and mind. Essences of flower petals, leaves, twigs roots and other natural elements are extracted mixed with oils for massaging the body or rubbing into the hands. Additionally, they are often used to infuse of soaps, cosmetics and ointments with restorative and energizing scents. ASCORBIC ACID (VITAMIN C) A preservative and antioxidant widely used in cosmetic creams, hair dyes and conditioners. Vitamin C is promoted in anti-wrinkle products and is necessary for normal healthy teeth, bones and blood vessels. ASTRINGENT A clearing liquid containing mostly alcohol that is used for contraction and tightening of organic tissue. B BARRIER CREAM This type of cream produces a protective coating when applied to the skin and provides a barrier against the elements. BEESWAX One of the oldest and purest waxes, this substance derived from the honeycomb of the bee. It is a natural emulsifier that produces few allergic reactions on skin and is widely used in the cosmetics industry as an emulsifier, emollient and thickener, giving rich texture to creams, lotions, lipsticks, mascara and salves, and forming a protective barrier between your skin and the environment. BETAINE This nitrogenous compound, similar to an amino acid, is found in the roots of sugar beets native to Europe, North Africa and Asia. Applied to the skin, it is cooling and anti-inflammatory. It also increases skin’s moisture retention, because of its unique water binding and cell membrane protective properties. BETULA ALBA (WHITE BIRCH) BARK EXTRACT Steam distilled from the bark of birch trees native to Russia, this antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory substance is believed to assist in removing toxins and help boost circulation, as well as help to clear the skin and relieve psoriasis and eczema. BOTANICAL EXTRACT An extract of herbs and plants, dissolved with water, oil or alcohol. BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA BUTTER) This fat obtained from the fruit of the African karate tree, has moisturizing and healing properties. It has been used for centuries in Africa to protect and condition skin damaged by the sun and wind. It is naturally rich in vitamins A, E, and F, as well as a number of other vitamins, minerals and essential fatty acids, which help soothe, balance and hydrate the skin. Shea butter is an intense moisturizer, provides elasticity to the skin, and is great for revitalizing dull, dry or chapped skin on the body or scalp. It is known to promote skin renewal, help increase circulation and accelerate wound healing. C (back to top) CALCIUM CARBONATE This chemical compound is generally found in rocks, and can also be produced from a pure quarried source (usually marble), or prepared by passing carbon dioxide into a solution of calcium hydroxide. In dermal applications, this ingredient is used to draw impurities such as excess sebum from the skin and helps smooth the appearance of skin. CALENDULA OFFICINALIS (CALENDULA) FLOWER EXTRACT/OIL This extract is derived from the Marigold flower, a healing plant with stimulating, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Good for sensitive skin, this ingredient is an emollient with softening and soothing effects on hair and skin. It is also cleansing and astringent. In a hair rinse, it soothes irritated scalp and improves scalp conditions, as well as enhances the color of yellow and light red hair. When added to skin care formulas, calendula helps soothe and aids irritated skin. CAMELLIA SINENSIS (GREEN TEA) LEAF EXTRACT The extract of the leaves of a perennial evergreen shrub native to Asia, this extract is a rich source of anti-oxidants, such as vitamins C and E and is valued for its stimulating, anti-inflammatory and free radical scavenging (anti-oxidant) activity. Green tea extract is said to help repair the effects of aging and environmental factors on skin. It is also believed to help rejuvenate skin, prevent sun damage and promote elasticity. When used in hair care products, green tea extract tones and protects the scalp. This extract is also often found in energizing or revitalizing spa products. CANNABIS SATIVA (HEMP) SEED OIL Commonly cultivated in Europe, Asia, North America and Chile, hemp has a bad reputation as being an illegal narcotic, which deters many people from the plant. However, its seeds are one of the most nutritious substances on earth. Oil from them can be used to nourish the skin and hair because of its high content of proteins and essential fatty acids. The fatty acids in hemp closely resemble our own skin’s lipids, so they are readily absorbed into the skin. The oil is said to help slow skin’s aging and provide a healthy moisture balance. Additionally, it offers relief to acne, minor abrasions, psoriasis and eczema. CAPRIC/CAPRYLLIC TRIGLYCERIDES A mixture of glycerin with caprylic and capric acids derived from coconut and palm oils. It is skin conditioning and used as an emollient and a “slip” agent. Its also a very effective in preventing water loss from the skin. CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS (SAFFLOWER) OLEOSOMES No solvents or chemicals are used in the gentle extraction process used to capture the oleosomes of this plant in the sunflower family. This protein-protected seed oil is isolated from the seed fully intact, and contains reservoirs of natural moisture barriers, emollient oils and antioxidants that benefit and protect the skin from premature aging. It is a natural base that acts as an emulsifier, emollient and moisturizer in one. CETEARYL ALCOHOL Not an "alcohol" such as ethyl or rubbing alcohol, this ingredient is actually an emulsifying wax made by combining fatty alcohols derived from vegetable sources. Used as an emulsifier and emollient, it is not drying to the skin, and in fact, forms an occlusive film that helps keep skin’s moisture from evaporating when used in skin care products. In hair care products, it gives hair and skin a velvety feeling. Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols keep an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components. These ingredients are also used to alter the thickness of liquid products and to increase foaming capacity or to stabilize foams. CETYL ALCOHOL This natural nonionic surfactant is derived from coconut and palm oils. While it’s a fatty alcohol, it is not an "alcohol" like ethyl or rubbing alcohol. Cetyl alcohol widely used as a softener, emulsifier and thickener in skin creams and lotions, as well in shampoos and conditioners. CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA (MATRICARIA) FLOWER EXTRACT Steam distilled from the flower heads of German Chamomile, this essential oil has a high content of azulene, which is a powerful anti-inflammatory and brightens the hair – particularly blonde hair. It is soothing, calming and balancing, both psychologically and physically, and provides an effective treatment for skin allergies, such as eczema and other rashes. The gentle action of the herb calms, heals and soothes skin conditions. Chamomile will correct damaged hair and stimulate the scalp. CITRIC ACID This natural alpha hydroxy acid, derived from various citrus fruits, is used in cosmetics to adjust the pH level to prevent personal care formulas from becoming too alkaline. It also acts as a mild acidic preservative and gentle exfoliant for skin. CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA (LIME) EXTRACT/OIL Cold pressed or steam distilled from the peel of the fruit of lime trees, this oil energizes, rejuvenates and refreshes the spirit. Lime is often used for shave products, body washes and shampoos. Externally it is used as an astringent to brighten dull skin. Its antiseptic and disinfectant properties are useful for clearing oily, congested skin. Lime also is believed to improve circulation and is a good toner for skin. CITRUS AURATIUM BERGAMIA (BERGAMOT) FRUIT/LEAF OIL Cold pressed from the peel of the fruit of this Italian tree, the oil has been used for many years as a treatment for a wide range of conditions including skin and mouth problems and respiratory conditions. It is an excellent deodorizer, can be used to elevate moods and is believed to help with the treatment psoriasis and eczema. The oil is one of the most widely used in the perfumery and toiletry industry, and is popular in blended massage and bath oils. CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS (SWEET ORANGE) FRUIT EXTRACT/OIL & PEEL EXTRACT/OIL Cold pressed from the fruit and peel of orange trees native to China and India, now cultivated in Brazil, Cypress, Israel, Mexico and the United States, this ingredient is valued for its zesty and refreshing, sweet-yet-tart aroma that is both uplifting and calming. In skin care preparations, orange oil helps to reduce puffiness and is believed to be particularly good for dry or aged skin. Both the oil and the peel are used to help stimulate circulation, clear blemishes and assist in the release of toxins from dull or blemished skin. The peel is used as a natural chemical exfoliator in facial washes and scrubs. CITRUS GRANDIS (GRAPEFRUIT) FRUIT EXTRACT This essential oil is cold pressed from the peel of the fruit of the grapefruit tree, native to India. It has antiseptic properties and a fresh aroma. This oil relieves congested, oily skin and has a toning effect on skin and tissues. CITRUS MEDICA LIMONIUM (LEMON) PEEL OIL/EXTRACT This essential oil is cold expressed from the peel of the fruit of the lemon tree, native to India, but grown around the world today. The clean smelling extract made from the oil is believed to stimulate and enliven the skin and balance sebum. In skin care products, it can be used to treat the appearance of cellulite and acne. CITRUS MEDICA LIMONIUM (LEMON) FRUIT OIL This essential oil has a clean, sharp, refreshing and uplifting scent. It is believed to stimulate the white corpuscles in the body to help fight infection. Used in massage oil, it can help to relieve lymph glands congested from infection and is believed to reduce bloating. In cosmetics and skin care formulas, the botanical can help improve oily complexions and fight skin blemishes. Likewise, in hair products, it can help control oil on the scalp. CITRUS NOBILIS (MANDARIN) OIL This essential oil is expressed from the peel of the mandarin orange, native to China but today is grown throughout the Mediterranean, the Middle East and the Americas. It is non-toxic, non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and is used as a flavoring agent especially in confectionery, soft drinks and liqueurs, as well as providing a soothing scent in soaps, cosmetics and perfumes. It is also useful to help reduce the appearance of stretch marks, increase circulation and reduce fluid retention. CITRUS RETICULATA (TANGERINE) OIL This essential oil is a sweet citrus oil that promotes tranquility and a sense of well-being. It is calming and gentle enough for children. In skin care products, tangerine is said to help reduce cellulite and act as a diuretic. It is a good toner for oily skin because of its antiseptic properties. COCOMIDOPROPYL BETAINE COCO-BETAINE is the inner salt derived from coconut oil, this ingredient is one of the most commonly used naturally-derived surfactants in the personal care industry. It is a high foaming surfactant that bubbles up quickly, but the bubbles don't last very long before dissipating. It is a mild cleanser, which makes it ideal for products that must be gentle, such as baby formulations, or in formulas where foam is of the most importance and cleansing is a secondary concern, such as bubble baths. COCONUT SEED OIL Coconut oil is the plant kernel oil of the coconut palm. The coconut has degreasing and cleansing properties and lathers very well. Coconut oil is a very common surfactant; many cleansing agents are derived from it. It’s one of the heaviest and fattest of all the plant oils, which makes it more emollient than other plant oils, but also possibly more comedogenic. For this reason, coconut oil is best for cleansers and body creams. Coconut oil is used for cleansing, moisturizing, protecting, softening. COCO-GLUCOSIDE An anionic Surfactant derived from coconut oil, this ingredient softens and moisturizes skin and hair. It produces a mild foam that is also a lipid layer enhancer to prevent defatting and drying out of the skin. In hair care products, it smoothes hair structure to improve manageability. COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL Cold pressed from the fruit of palm trees, which are native to the tropics and grown in sandy soil, this oil is light, non-greasy, exceptionally emollient and has cooling properties. It is a great oil for use as a general moisturizer and serves as a protective layer on the skin, helping to retain the moisture. Because it is mild, it is suitable for inflamed, irritated and sensitive skin. Coconut oil is commonly used to promote lather in soaps and gels, and incorporates well into balms. COCOAMPHOACETATE Cleans the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that these substances can be rinsed away. They also increase foaming capacity or stabilize foams. These ingredients enhance the appearance and feel of hair, by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen, or by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment. COLLAGEN This protein is the most abundant in the human body, containing mainly glycerin, hydroxyproline and prioline. It is found in all connective tissues, including skin, cartilage, tendons and ligaments. When the collagen in the skin deteriorates due to aging or overexposure to the sun, wrinkles appear. COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX This vegetable wax is derived from the leaves of the carnuba palm, native to Brazil. Carnauba wax is often used in conjunction with beeswax or candelilla in cosmetic products such as lip balms, body butters, creams, and lotions. CORIANDRUM OFFICINALIS (CORIANDER) FRUIT EXTRACT/OIL This warm, sweet, spicy essential oil is steam distilled from the seeds of coriandum sativum, native to Russia. It has antibacterial properties and is a good oil to diffuse during the cold season. Coriander essential oil can be used in muscle rubs to warm and relax tense muscles, and lends an interesting note to fragrance blends. CYCLOPENTASILOXANE In hair products, Cyclopentasiloxane (or CPS for short) is one of many types of silicones. In general, silcones are known for their ability to lubricate, waterproof and provide shine. (Think “Armor All” for your head.) CPS is a water-thin so it’s very good at dispersing thicker, greasier silicones. For this reason it’s often used in combination with dimethicone. It is also volatile, which means it will evaporate. So, not only does it help spread heavier silicones but it doesn’t leave your hair feeling weighed down after it’s done. D DAUCUS CAROTA SAVITA (CARROT) SEED EXTRACT/OIL This essential oil with a heavy, woodsy scent is steam distilled from the seeds of European wild carrots, which are a close cousin of the orange carrots we eat. It is rich in beta-carotene and vitamin A, making it beneficial for healthy skin, hair, gums and teeth. It even contributes to good eyesight. This oil is used primarily for its soothing, healing properties and effects on the skin. It is believed to stimulate cell renewal and circulation, repair and tone the skin, balance sebum, increase elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and scars. It helps protect skin exposed to extreme weather, and is considered to be one of the best essential oils for dry and mature skin. DECYL GLUCOSIDE This ingredient is produced by the reaction of glucose from cornstarch with the fatty alcohol decanol, which is derived from coconut oil. It is biodegradable, non-toxic, non-irritating and will not block pores. This extremely mild and effective non-ionic cleanser creates an excellent lather, rinses quickly, is biodegradable and offers a natural alternative to harsh surfactants like Sodium Laurel Sulfate. Decyl glucoside is used in a wide variety of personal care products, including products for individuals with sensitive skin. DIAZOLIDINYL UREA Prevents or retards bacterial growth, and thus protects cosmetics and personal care products from spoilage. It is a mild but effective preservative against bacteria, yeast and molds. This helps to protect the product from inadvertent contamination by the consumer during use. DIMETHICONE Derived from silica (a naturally occurring, organic component of sand and quartz), it is used to impart a soft velvety feel to hair or skin products. It is also used as an emulsifier for "water-in-oil" emulsions. In hair products, it is a de-tangling agent that adds shine and forms a protective barrier. On the skin, it protects normal skin against various skin irritants while moisturizing and creating a velvety smooth feel. Dimethicone evaporates completely leaving no greasy residue. DIMETHYL STEARAMINE Prevents or inhibits the buildup of static electricity. Although it is used mainly to reduce static electricity in hair products, bacterial studies with Dimethyl Stearamine suggest it has antibacterial action even at very low concentrations. DIOSCOREA VILLOSA (WILD YAM) ROOT EXTRACT Derived from the root of a twining tuberous vine native to North America, this ingredient has a calming effect on skin, and is typically added to products to help increase skin’s firmness. DISODIUM EDTA Binds to metal ions and inactivates them. The binding of metal ions helps prevent the deterioration of cosmetics and personal care products. It also helps to maintain clarity, protect fragrance compounds, and prevent rancidity. DISTEARYLDIMONIUM CHLORIDE Active ingredient for conditioners, antistatic agents, detergent sanitizers and softners to formulating antimicrobials, disinfection agents and sanitizers. E ELAEIS GUINEENSIS (PALM) OIL Extracted from the fruit of the palm, native to Africa and commonly grown in the East Indies, palm oil is generally used as a skin conditioning agent. This emollient is highly lubricating, generally non-toxic and non-sensitizing. The oil is often used in soaps, lotions and creams. In cold process soap making, this ingredient helps create a hard bar that resists melting, when used in combination with other oils such as coconut oil and olive oil. Oleochemicals manufactured from palm oil and palm kernel oil are environmentally friendly and readily biodegradable. EMOLLIENT This general term is applied to various skin conditioning agents that help maintain the smooth, soft, pliable appearance of the skin. While the terms emollient and moisturizer are often used interchangeably, the two functions are different but often occur at the same time. EMULSIFIER This type of agent is used to assist in the production of an emulsion. Emulsifiers enable oils to be dispersed throughout a water base to form a cream or lotion that does not separate. EMULSION This is a stable system in which two liquids that would not normally mix together are held in suspension by a small amount of an emulsifier. EMULSIFYING WAX NF Emulsifying wax is a staple ingredient in lotion making, combining oil and water. This ready to use combination of cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60 creates a stable emulsion without the need for secondary emulsifiers. Cetearyl Alcohol and the other fatty alcohols keep an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components. These ingredients are also used to alter the thickness of liquid products and to increase foaming capacity or to stabilize foams. ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS There are two families of essential fatty acids, which play a role in various biological processes, but cannot be produced by the body. Omega-3s (alpha-linolenic acid or ALA) and omega-6s (linoleic acid) are found in many common seed and vegetable oils. Seed oils are the richest sources of ALA, notably those of rapeseed (canola), soybeans, walnuts, flaxseed (Linseed), perilla, chia and hemp. When included in skin care formulas, they can be effective in treating conditions including dry skin, eczema and acne. ERGOCALCIFEROL (VITAMIN D) Plant-derive vitamin that improves moisturization and reduces protein breakdown. Recent studies shown great promise in vitamin D assisting in the treatment of psoriasis. ESSENTIAL OILS These oils are volatile, rapidly evaporating oils obtained from the leaves, stems, flowers, seeds or roots of a plant that usually carry the odor characteristic of the plant. Most essential oils are produced by steam distillation, although several are mechanically expressed. Essential oils add fragrance to skin care products, as well as contribute to their healthful and beautifying qualities through their various abilities to tone, balance, relax, cleanse and invigorate. Although all essential oils are fragrant, not all fragrances are made from essential oils. True essential oils must be plant derived. ESTER This type of compound is formed by the reaction of an acid or an alcohol. The esters used in cosmetics are usually emollients that help products spread easily and penetrate into the contours of the skin more readily. EUCALYPTUS GOBULUS (EUCALYPTUS) LEAF EXTRACT/OIL Steam distilled or macerated from the leaves and twigs of eucalyptus grown in Australia, China and Portugal, this essential oil is best known for its ability to aid respiratory ailments and provide relief from flu and congestion. It stimulates circulation, increases concentration and is useful for relieving joint and muscle aches and pains. This oil can help stop the irritation of a bug bite and even prevent one, as it acts as an insect repellent. EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX This hard vegetable wax is found on the leaves of a small shrub native to Mexico and the southwestern United States. The wax has superior molding properties and is used to provide shine and lock in moisture in skincare products and cosmetics like lip balms, body butters, creams, lotions, and hair preparations. EXFOLIANT A product or ingredient that is used to remove dead skin cells or waste products from the skin. Exfoliants mechanically removed dirt using a gently abrasive action, leaving the skin soft and smooth. F FRAGRANCE The particular aromatic blend of essential oils added to a product to impart a scent. FREE RADICAL These highly-reactive atoms or molecules can cause cellular damage, impairing the immune system and leading to degenerative diseases. They also are known contributors to premature aging of the skin. G GLUCOSE This product of photosynthesis in plants is an organic compound found in fruits and honey. A simple sugar, or monosaccharide, glucose is used in foods, medicine, brewing, and wine making and as the source of various other organic formulas. GLUCOSE OXIDASE Glucose oxidase is found in honey and acts as a natural preservative by reducing atmospheric oxygen to hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide acts as an antimicrobial barrier, helping preserve personal care products by inhibiting the growth of microbes such as bacteria, fungi and viruses. GLYCERIN /GLYCERINE (VEGETABLE-BASED) This sweet-tasting, clear, syrupy liquid is made by combining water and fats derived from vegetable oil. Glycerin is used in moisturizers due to its water binding capabilities that allow it to draw and absorb water from the air helping skin and hair retain moisture. Non-irritating, soothing, and conditioning, it can be used on even the most sensitive skin and is a common ingredient in clear soaps. GLYCEROL DISTEARATE Made of glycerin and fatty acids, these ingredients are used in skin care products, moisturizers, and lipstick and other makeup products. The Glyceryl Diesters act as lubricants on the surface of the skin, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance. GLYCERYL OLEATE Used as an emulsifier, this natural surfactant, made from sunflower oil, is an extremely mild and effective cleanser that rinses quickly. GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL Cold pressed from beans native to southwestern Asia and cultivated worldwide in warm regions, this oil is high in linoleic acid, contains proteins and some vitamin A, C, E, and K. It also contains lecithin, which is known for its emulsifying and antioxidant properties. Soybean is a light-textured, nourishing, easily absorbed, odorless oil, suitable as a moisturizer and softener for all skin types. This oil is commonly found in soaps, moisturizers, lipsticks and shampoos. GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM (GUAR GUM) Imparts conditioning properties to shampoos and after-shampoo hair care products. The guar bean or cluster bean is an annual bean grown principally in India and Pakistan, with smaller crops grown in the USA, Australia and Africa, and function as liquid emulsifiers, that is, they thicken cosmetic products and make them creamy. Guar Gum functions as a hydrating emulsifier and thickener. H HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA (WITCH HAZEL) BARK/LEAF/TWIG EXTRACT Derived by maceration or steam distillation from a shrub indigenous to North America and cultivated in Europe, this extract has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, healing and soothing properties. One of nature's best astringents, it is frequently used in products like after shave lotions, where it shows mildly styptic properties and helps to reduce razor burn and swelling. It also can be used as a toner or in place of a cleanser, where it is particularly beneficial in clearing oily skin. HEDYCHIUM GARDNERIANUM (HAWAIIAN GINGER) EXTRACT Originating from India and now grown in Hawaii and other tropical areas, this ingredient is most commonly used as an exfoliant in soaps and creams. It increases circulation to the skin helping to remove toxins. HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL Cold pressed from organically cultivated sunflower seeds, this highly versatile oil is naturally high in vitamins A and D, lecithin and the essential fatty acid Omega 9. Its high oleic content makes it a good ingredient because it is believed to help with cell regeneration and is highly recommended for products formulated to moisturize mature or damaged skin. HERBS A plant or plant part that is valued for its medicinal or aromatic qualities. HONEY This sweet, viscous fluid produced by honeybees is one of the oldest natural skin care ingredients. It has been used in skin care for its antimicrobial, healing and skin softening properties. Honey is rich in amino acids, vitamins and minerals. As a natural cleanser, honey attracts dead cells from the surface of the skin. Honey powder is used in creams, lotions, soaps, scrubs, facials, masks, body wraps, bath teas, milk baths, bath salts and bath bombs. HUMECTANT This type of substance preserves the moisture or water content of the skin. Most dry skin lacks moisture rather than oil, and therefore humectants and moisturizers are needed instead of creams or oils. The most effective humectants are alpha hydroxy acids, particularly lactic acid, which, when applied to the skin, draws water from the deeper layers of skin to the surface. HYDRATING Supplying with ample fluid or water. HYDROXYL ETHYL CELLULOSE A plant-derived, gum-like material that has the unique ability to swell in the presence of water and to increase the viscosity of aqueous products. In body products it is often used as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, protective film former, or as a viscosity increasing agent. I INFUSION Herbal remedy made by steeping the plant material in water. IRON OXIDES This FDA approved natural colorant for personal care products and cosmetics is made from iron that has been oxidized. It varies in color, but it is usually yellow, red or black, depending on the degree of water added and the purity. J K L LACTIC ACID An alpha hydroxy acid derived from molasses, lactic acid is odorless and colorless. It is used to accelerate the skin’s exfoliation process and retexturize the skin’s surface and to stimulate cell renewal and aids in creating smoother more flexible skin. It Moisturizes the skin, regulates pH balances, and has skin lightening properties. Additionally, lactic acid is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of the skin and increases the water binding capacity of the horny layer. LACTOPEROXIDASE This naturally existing enzyme is found in raw milk and has antioxidant properties, as well as antimicrobial properties, helping it to preserve personal care products by inhibiting the growth of microbes such as bacteria, fungi and viruses. LAURYL GLUCOSIDE This mild Surfactant and detergent is made from coconut oil and sugar. It is often used in shampoos as a detergent and thickening agent. LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA (LAVENDER) OIL Steam distilled from an evergreen shrub grown in the Mediterranean region, mainly France, this oil is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and cleansing. It helps with nervous conditions, skin problems, muscle aches and pains, and arthritis and rheumatism. In skin care products, lavender oil tones and revitalizes and is useful in treating all types of skin problems such as abscesses, acne, oily skin, boils, burns, sunburn, wounds, psoriasis, lice, insect bites and stings. It also acts as an insect repellent and can help reduce scarring. LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL This is a relatively new oil on the cosmetic and natural body care scene, soon to be seen on body care labels from many manufacturers. Derived from small flowers which are grown in the mid-west, it offers great conditioning properties, good “slip” and re-moisturizes the skin in ways no oil can. Meadowfoam Seed Oil is as durable as Jojoba, has nearly as long of a shelf life, and can be used in formulations to actually preserve the less stable oils by primarily attaching the molecules together. M MANGIFERA INDICIA (MANGO) SEED BUTTER This exotic butter is extracted from the seeds of a tropical fruit tree native to India. It has excellent moisturizing properties with high antioxidant content, and is believed to help protect against UV radiation. This ingredient has natural emollient properties, and is reputed to be useful for treating burns, stretch marks, scars and wounds. It can help with skin regeneration and may help smooth wrinkles and restore elasticity. MELALEUCA ALTERNIFOLIA (TEA TREE) LEAF OIL Derived from the leaves of trees native to Australia, this essential oil has gained recognition as the strongest antifungal, antiviral and antibacterial essential oil. It is a popular addition to skin care formulas for its germ-killing properties and is often used in wintertime cold formulas to keep germs from spreading. The cleansing agent helps combat foot odor and athlete’s foot, and is helpful in treating cold sores, wounds, warts, burns and acne. MELISSA OFFICINALIS (LEMON BALM) LEAF EXTRACT Steam distilled from a plant native to the Mediterranean region, this oil adds a sweet, fresh citrus-like smell to personal care products. It is non-toxic, and may help fight infections. MENTHA PIPERITA (PEPPERMINT) OIL Derived from the leaves of a plant commonly found in Europe and North America, this essential oil is known for its soothing, as well as stimulating properties. Its aroma is believed to help relieve headaches, indigestion, nausea and itching, reduce mental fatigue and increase alertness. It is sometimes used to repel insects. The fresh-smelling, cooling oil is commonly used in soaps and skin creams, and has a warming effect that can help relax sore tire muscles. MENTHIS VIRIDIS (SPEARMINT) LEAF OIL/EXTRACT Derived from the leaves of a plant commonly found in North America, this essential oil has a slightly milder, sweeter aroma than peppermint. It is believed to increases alertness, open up the respiratory system and lift the spirit. Used sparingly, it can bring a sense of calm and relaxation. It also is a good remedy for nausea and fever. In skin care, spearmint is often used in soaps and facial toners to help cleanse and refine pores. MICA This fine mineral powder can be used to reflect light and create a pearl-like effect on the skin. N O OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL Pressed from the pulp of fully ripe olives of the European olive tree, Olive oil is high in oleic acid and is believed to be a good skin cell regenerator. It attracts external moisture to the skin while still permitting the skin to properly release sweat, shed dead skin and release sebum. Its penetrating power is superior to mineral oils. P PANTHENOL (PRO VITAMIN B5) Acts as a deep penetrating moisturizer adding strength and body to the hair by filling in cracks on the haft, thereby firming up the fiber. This plumping and moisturizing of the hair shaft makes it appear thicker, reduces split ends, soothes skin and strengthens nails. It is also very useful to prevent hair loss and stimulates the scalp. PEG 80 SORBITAN LAURIDE* The PEGs Sorbitan and Sorbitol Fatty Acid Esters help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified and they help other ingredients to dissolve in a solvent in which they would not normally dissolve. They also clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away. PEG 150 DISTEARATE* PEG Distearate ingredients are used to clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away. They also help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified and help other ingredients to dissolve in a solvent in which they would not normally dissolve. PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL We use an unsaturated avocado oil, cold pressed to retain all of its natural vitamins and minerals. It closely matches the skin in its makeup and has the highest penetration rate among similar oils (corn, soybean, olive and almond). Avocado Oil is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), D and E, lecithin, minerals, protein, lecithin and fatty acids as well as potassium - known as the youth mineral. It has extremely good moisturizing and nourishing compound. POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE QUATERNARY (SEE DIMETHICONE) POLYSORBATE 60 This substance consists of stearic acid, derived from vegetable oil. It is used to solubilize essential oils into water-based products. PRUNUS ARMENIACA (APRICOT) KERNEL OIL Expeller pressed from air-dried apricots, this essential oil is a triglyceride rich in vitamins A and E. In skin care products, this emollient is a natural alternative to mineral oil, adding good lubricity to products. It is rapidly absorbed and helps skin retain elasticity, clarity, and suppleness. This oil is recommended for mature, sensitive and inflamed, irritated or dry skin. PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL Almond Oil comes from the fruit of the almond tree. This oil is very emollient and gentle for the skin and can be used daily for most skin types. It’s generally safe for baby skin as well. Sweet almond oil, contains 24% linoleic acid, an incredibly high amount of the antioxidant EFA. This makes Sweet Almond Oil among the most antioxidant oils used for skin. Sweet almond oil has a long historical use that includes restoring itchy, dry and inflamed skin as well as being a simple emollient. Many massage therapists use this oil as a lubricant. It’s also widely used as a carrier for essential oils. Almond oil performs as an antioxidant, emollient, and lubricant. Q R RETINAL PALMITATE (VITAMIN A) Vitamin A benefits include helping with acne, skin care, stretch marks, eczema, menstruation, urinary tract health, wound healing, resistance to infection, heart health, sinusitis, and more. RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL Derived from the seeds of the castor plant, found in India, Russia, Brazil, China and Mediterranean countries, this oil is very thick with a slightly sticky texture and a mild odor. Castor oil is rich in fatty acids and is soothing and lubricating. It offers anti-inflammatory properties, helps treat eczema, psoriasis, chapped skin and burns and moisturizes skin. It is a humectant that attracts moisture to the skin. S SAMBUCUS NIGRA (ELDER) FLOWER EXTRACT Used to replenish, highlight and control your hair. Works to stimulate the scalp, reduce oiliness and encourage follicle regeneration. SILICA (see Dimethicone) This white powder, which is slightly soluble in water, occurs abundantly in nature and is an absorbent material for skin creams. SILK AMINO ACIDS A natural, water-soluble source of acid derived from liquid silk; these acids help moisture penetrate the skin (aid in absorption) and aid in skin healing. Used in hair products, it adds softness and repair hair structure, reconditions, and used to penetrate the hair to add body and strength. SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL Expeller pressed from the nuts of a plant found in the deserts of the U.S. and Mexico, this essential oil contains protein and minerals, as well as a waxy substance similar to collagen. It has antioxidant properties and contains a natural anti-inflammatory called myristic acid. Offering the traits of both an oil and a wax, it is an ideal ingredient in soap, cream, lotion, balm and massage oil formulations. It is highly penetrating and closely resembles skin’s natural sebum. In facial products, it helps to remove excess oils and to help balance the skin's natural oil. This oil can also help lighten and heal scars and reduce wrinkles and stretch marks. SODIUM CHLORIDE This concentrated mineral salt derived from the sea is non-toxic and non-irritating. It is commonly used to thicken personal care product formulas and to help draw impurities out of the body through the skin. SODIUM COCOYL ISOTHIONATE Prepared from the fatty acid mixture of coconut oil, it cleans the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away. SODIUM HYDROXIDE Historically used to hydrolyze fats, produce the “lye” and to control the pH of cosmetics and personal care products. SODIUM STEARATE Used for their lubricating properties. They also help to keep emulsions from separating into their oil and liquid components. Stearate salts increase the thickness of the lipid (oil) portion of cosmetics and personal care products and reduce the clear or transparent appearance of finished products. SODIUM TRIDECETH SULPHATE Natural means of increasing the thickness of the aqueous (water) portion of surfactants, cleansing agents, emulsifying agents, or solubilizing agents. SORBETH-40 (SORBITOL) The PEG Sorbitan/Sorbitol Fatty Acid Esters help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified and they help other ingredients to dissolve in a solvent in which they would not normally dissolve. The PEGs Sorbitan/Sorbitol Fatty Acid Esters also clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away. STEAPYRIUM CHLORIDE Cleanse the skin and prevents odor by destroying or inhibiting the growth of microorganisms. This ingredient also prevents or inhibit the buildup of static electricity in hair care preparations. STEARIC ACID Naturally derived from soybeans, this waxy solid substance is the main ingredient used in making bar soaps to harden and opacify them. It also acts an emulsifier and thickener for lotions and creams. SUCROSE (STEARATE, DISTEARATE, LAURATE, POLYSTEARATE) Plant sugars are combined with plant oil fatty acids by simple, non-toxic processes to make this biodegradable surfactant and emulsifier. It is gentle to the skin with a softening, cooling, moisturizing and anti-microbial effect. T THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) SEED BUTTER This pure, crushed butter is obtained from the seeds of trees grown in Central and South America and Africa. Known for its hydrating effects and pleasing aroma, cocoa butter is rich in antioxidants and many vitamins and minerals, including vitamin E. It also helps boost skin’s collagen production, which helps to combat wrinkles and other signs of aging. This nourishing ingredient softens and soothes dry, chapped skin, helps to treat skin irritations. Pregnant women across the world smooth Cocoa Butter on their bellies to help prevent and minimize the appearance of stretch marks by keeping the skin supple. TOCOPHEROL (VITAMIN E) Given the numerous benefits, Vitamin E has become an essential part of healthy skin care. Because of its antioxidant activity, the natural form of vitamin E is vital in protecting skin cells from ultra violet light, pollution, drugs, and other elements that produce cell damaging free radicals. Free radicals are believed to play an important role in skin aging and therefore the antioxidant activity is quite valuable for this skin problem. TRIFOLIUM PRETENSE (RED CLOVER) Valued for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, calming, cleansing and demulcent properties. In creams, it aids in the relief of many skin conditions including acne, eczema and psoriasis, as well as sun and wind damage. Red clover is used in lip balms for its soothing properties. It is also included in hair products for dry or damaged hair as it replenishes, highlights and controls hair and helps with hair loss. Recommended for normal-dry, dry and irritated skin, but particularly useful for chronic skin conditions. TRITICUM VULGARE (WHEAT) GERM OIL Made from the heart of common wheat grains, this oil is high in lecithin, fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E. Because of its high vitamin E content, it has antioxidant properties. It is exceptional for treating dry skin, and is said to promote smoother, younger looking skin, assisting in healing scar tissue and reducing the appearance of stretch marks. U V VEGETABLE SOAP BASE Historically, soaps have been made from animal fats, which have been found to clog pores and aggravate certain skin conditions such as eczema. Over time, new oils were extracted from vegetables, grains and nuts such as coconut oil, olive oil and sunflower oil providing an alternative. Vegetable oil soaps can be of higher quality and are more readily absorbed by the skin. VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED EXTRACT/OIL Extracted from grape seeds after the fruit is juiced, this oil is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, protein, and vitamin E. Grapeseed also has a high content of linoleic acid, a fatty acid essential for the cell membranes and the skin. It is a light, slightly astringent, penetrating oil and carrier oil for massage and aromatherapy applications as it lends a shimmering touch to the skin. It’s astringent qualities helps to tighten and tone the skin and is excellent for treating stubborn acne and other skin problems. W WHITE WILLOW (SALIX ALBA) BARK EXTRACT Used to replenish, highlight and control your hair and to control dandruff. Also used in skincare as an astringent and has antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and antipyretic properties. It is also used to stimulate circulation. The active extract of White Willow Bark, called salicin, is a key additive in many skin-care products for the treatment of acne, psoriasis, calluses, corns, keratosis pilaris and warts. It treats acne by causing skin cells to slough off more readily, preventing pores from clogging up. This effect on skin cells also makes salicylic acid an active ingredient in several shampoos meant to treat dandruff. X XANTHAN GUM This polysaccharide, or sugar polymer, is a natural thickener derived from corn sugar by a fermentation process. It is a common food additive and is also used to thicken and add volume to lotions, creams and gels. It also works as a suspension agent. Y Z ZINGIBER OFFICINALE (GINGER) EXTRACT/OIL Steam distilled from the root of the ginger plant, native to India, China and Java, this extract has a peppery, sharp, pungent, aromatic, warm and spicy odor often with a hint of camphor or lemon. Inhaling the scent is said to be stimulating. Ginger is believed to help relieve nausea and motion sickness. Used in a compress, lotion, liniment, or massage oil, its heating action helps to relieve pain from arthritis, sore muscles, menstrual cramps and headache. *note: Small amounts of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation, may be found in PEG Sorbitan/Sorbitol Fatty Acid Esters and Distearate ingredients. The potential presence of this material is well known and is controlled through purification steps to remove it from the ingredients before blending into cosmetic formulations. 
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